birds and bubbles, lower east side

Do you like Southern food? (The answer is always, “Yes.”) Good. Get your tush down (literally down, Birds and Bubbles is subterranean) to Forsyth St. immediately to try the lovely Sarah Simmons’ take on mac and cheese. You may recognize her name from City Grit, her culinary salon that hosts chefs from all over the country. Birds and Bubbles is her first restaurant and serves chicken and champagne (get it?) as well as her own unique take on mac.

“Sophie’s mac and cheese” — as it’s listed on the menu — is a humble mac. It’s not overpowered by super-strong cheeses and the sauce itself is mild; this is not a mac for those of you who like a 50-50 cheese/pasta split. But this being a Southern joint, there is one special nod to Simmons’ roots which sets this dish apart from others: the biscuit gremolata topping. Gremolata, for those of you unfamiliar, is an herb condiment generally made with lemon zest, garlic and parsley. You know what always makes a dish better? Adding more carbs.

Is Simmons the first one to create such a glorious thing? I’m not sure, but I’m not mad about it. It adds a buttery, savory crunch to the dish that is a perfect complement to the somewhat-mild pasta.

Birds and Bubbles, 100 Forsyth St. 646.368.9240

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